Down a dirt road, past fields and deep woods ~
stands a humble little farmhouse wearing chippy white paint and a rusty tin roof...
it's here at our beloved Notforgotten Farm that you will find me... chasing kittens, puttering in the gardens or talking to the trees...I collect old & odd things.
I pull wool & cotton through linen. I walk barefoot in my garden and throw my head back and cackle when I laugh... I love where I am & who I'm with
~ I am a good witch...

Our little needlework shop & studio
is located at
3530 Tye River Road
Amherst, VA 24521
ph. 434-263-6508
email - Notforgottenfarmwitch@gmail.com

Regular Farm Shop Hours ~ Unless otherwise stated in postings below:
Saturdays
10:00 - 4:00
{{ if you would like to visit us on a day we're not open, please call or email ~ we'll arrange a time }}

Please visit our ETSY Shop ~ by clicking on any one of the thumbnail photos below...



Sunday, November 11, 2018

~ More Thread-tails ~


 Good Sunday Morning
Friends & Folk!

oh boy is it a chilly one here in Old Virginia ~
heavy frost last night, woke to sparkling grass and glistening leaves...so pretty.
It's morning like these, especially a Sunday morning like this ~
that keeps me thankful for wool socks and woodstoves.

keeping my hands warm, however,
is never a problem for me...they are always moving in one sort or another!
either tapping keyboards, stirring pots, petting the soft fur and feather of our farm friends
or most-likely, holding a needle and thread...

working on my embroidery has been the easiest thing for me to do while my eyes are healing.
stitching like this is not as crucially important to the finished piece as counted cross stitch,
but still challenging to me nonetheless ~ with the way I layer my stitches and add details.


take my lastest for example ~
this little "Cinderklaus" and how I stitched him...

many ask me what stitch I use for my embroideries, and my answer is this:

I use a split stitch for outlining  AND filling-in my motifs.
yes it looks like chain stitch, but I assure you it is not...
I also use a very short satin stitch, for facial features
and layer them in different directions for depth and dimension.

...here is an example of chain stitch:
chain is worked by bringing the needle through the previous stitch
 from the top or surface of your work ~ forming a chain and the 'chain' links are more 'open';
 


CHAIN STITCH

 and here is split stitch:
split stitch is worked by bringing the needle UP through the previous stitch 
from under your work, splitting the threads of the previous stitch
 and forming a tighter 'chain' if you will...




SPLIT STITCH
in this photo below,
you can see what I mean about the layering of the short satin stitch for facial features ~
the face is embroidered in different directions, usually vertical from the forehead up, and then horizontally, from the cheeks down...then I will use a different color thread and stitch over my previous stitches to form cheeks, the bridge of a nose or brow-line.
once the face is stitched, then I will add eyebrows/facial hair, etc.


looking a little more closely, 
you'll see that I ddn't actually stitch the eyes or mouth for that matter!
I simply use a pencil to draw shadows and added dimension ~ 
it is a unique-technique that I developed over time, and one that I use in all of my embroideries.
 

of course, having help is always welcomed...
thank you sweet Iggy for modeling for me
 
 
 
I hope this helps you understand my way of doing this,
if you ever need help, let me know ~ 
I'm happy to help and love to teach!

don't forget that I also am the creator/administrator for the
Humble Work - hand embroidery group on Facebook ~
a great group where you can learn, share and go for inspiration on embroidery...
 
here is the link to request to join:
 
 
Blessings from the Farm 
~ Lori

Saturday, November 10, 2018

~ It's almost that time again! ~

 Hello Friends! 
our farm shop & studio will be
 C L O S E D 
until November 3oth, when we will reopen for our annual 

~ Holiday Open House ~ 
3 days of shopping in a row! 
10:00 - 4:00 Friday November 30th
 Saturday December 1st 
and Sunday December 2nd 

with Special Guests Santa & Mrs. Claus on Saturday December 1st!!

 ~ we will have hot cocoa and cookies, sweets & treats ~ 
come and get your patterns & supplies for your Winter handwork: 
• rug hooking, applique, embroidery, punch needle & cross stitch
 • shop for seasonal finished goods and candles 

ALSO ~ our Studio will be OPEN each day,
 if you'd like to come on in and bring your work in progress, 
...just relax a bit and/or finish those handmade projects you will be giving as gifts! 
Hope to See you then!!



Blessings from the Farm
 ~ Lori

Friday, November 9, 2018

~ yes, we are closed again ~

Seriously...
I know I know,
... we haven’t had our little Shop and Studio open in
F o r e v e r.



Between shows, classes and surgeries,
And now preparing for thanksgiving and our holiday open house,
We will not be open again until our open house, which is
Friday November 30th, Saturday December 1st and Sunday December 2nd
Open each day from 10:00 🕙 - 4:00 🕓 each day ~
🎄 I’ll be posting more about it as the time draws nearer 🎄
❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️

Blessings from the Farm ~
 Lori

Wednesday, November 7, 2018

~ New Ornament Patterns are LIsted & my Basic Punch Needle Instructions ~


Howdy Friends & Folk!
I have listed my new little Punch Needle Folk Ornaments
 in our Etsy shop for your amusement!
 
clockwise: Kitten in a Mitten, Jolly in the Holly, Mouse in a House &
Fox in a Sock.
 
these are available as Printed/Mailed and PDF/Download.


 
I am also including this here for those who have never seen it :
 
*** Notforgotten Farm’s
BASIC PUNCH NEEDLE INSTRUCTIONS -
Please read through these instructions and tips before you begin your project -

these are just my basic guidelines for how I punch, other designers may/may not punch the same way :) 

Trace your design onto your Weavers Cloth using pencil -
I prefer pencil to pen, as it is erasable and will not bleed or mark my threads like pen ink. 

Place your traced design onto your gripper frame or in your lip lock hoop and make sure the weavers cloth is very tight...it is important to have the cloth drum tight to make punching easier for you. 

Refer often to the color photo on the cover of your pattern for placement, while you read the directions on the pattern page for that specific pattern design. 

I use a MEDIUM tip punch needle exclusively - the Cameo Ultra Punch Needle is my favorite, and I keep it set on the lowest or #1 setting unless otherwise specified on pattern.

I use all 6 strands of DMC floss when called for, I DO NOT SEPARATE my DMC thread!

When I use DMC thread, I unwrap the skein and then wind the thread onto small wooden spools for easier manageability - since I don’t separate these, there is no need for me to cut a certain length, I just punch from the spool what I need :) 

I use size #8 Valdani pearl cotton which I double,
by taking one end from the outer wrap on the ball and one end from the center of the ball, to which I will then thread my needle with both ends. 

Punch your needle down to the COLLAR of your handle, to ensure proper loop height, then lift up and lightly drag your needle-tip across the fabric surface. Now punch down your next loop approximately the width of your needle away from your previous loop and continue to do this, making uniform punches.

**DO NOT LIFT YOUR NEEDLE OUT OF THE WEAVERS CLOTH TOO HIGH

**DO NOT DRAG YOUR NEEDLE TOO FAR AWAY FROM YOUR PREVIOUS LOOP 

Punch all small details first, then punch your background. Punch in any direction you feel comfortable, but most right handers punch from right to left. Punching in different directions lends movement to your work, especially backgrounds and when using variegated threads. 

Clip your ends low on your working surface as you go,
... so as not to accidentally push a thread tail to the front of your project. 

Once you have filled in your project completely, turn it over to check for any spaces on the front and go back and fill in if necessary...then remove your project from frame/hoop, and trim away any excess tails, snags or pulled loops from the front of your project. 

If you wish to press your work with an iron, do so very gently as to not crush your loops. I like to place a damp tea towel on top of my finished project {face up} and gently steam it with a hot iron. 

There are many ways to finish off your punched project: 

I like to make small pillows that I stuff with wool/fabric scraps, or a mixture of lavender and organic sawdust.
Place your preferred backing fabric face up on your work surface, then place your finished punched project on top of that FACE DOWN. I like to stitch right up to the last punched row {if this is a square pillow you’re making}
I hand or machine stitch all the way around the project, trim away the excess weavers/backing to within 1/4”. I will then cut a small slit in the backing fabric in the center, and then turn i=t right sides around. Then I stuff and cover the slit with a small patch of fabric, either coordinating or to match the backing fabric used. 

Framing your punch needle is a nice way too, and you can usually find inexpensive frames at thrift shops and big box stores - don’t forget that you can paint the frame to your liking too! A little sandpaper and paint can really liven up a not-so-pretty frame into something wonderful :) 

I love to make ornament too - here’s how I do this:
After punching is complete, I will trim away the weavers cloth to about 1 inch from the last punched row, according to the shape of the project...then, using the very outline shape of the template for the pattern, I will trace that onto cereal cardboard. I use glue sticks to glue the cardboard to the back of my punched project, making sure that the edges of the cardboard match up with the last punched row of my project all the way around. Next I snip the weavers cloth {the 1/4” around} and turn back the edges of the weavers to the cardboard...use the glue stick again to keep edges glued down. Turn your project over, REMEMBER it’s ok if you see some of the weavers cloth on the edges from the front! we’ll cover that up using a Sepia colored Pigma Pen with a Brush Tip!

Now take your backing fabric {I prefer cotton fabric in Reproduction prints} and lay it face down on your work surface...then lay your punched project on cardboard face up on that - using pencil or chalk, trace the outline of your project’s shape onto the cloth and cut out just outside the drawn line. Use your glue stick on the cardboard back of your punched project to glue your backing fabric on...
Use your cotton thread, pearl cotton or sewing thread and a very sharp needle to whip-stitch all the way around your project, stitching THROUGH the front, cardboard and backing fabric {like you’re stitching together a little sandwich}. Once finished whipping, poke a hole at the top of your project using a large eye needle and I like to use rusty wire as a hanger - you can bend the end of the wire closest to the project to keep it from coming out, and then you can curl the top of the wire into a swirly-shaped loop :) 
Individual results will ALWAYS vary from person to person...
Remember, Practice Makes Perfect 
{or at least Primitively Perfect!}

be happy, get punchy!!!!!!
~ Lori ~

Blessings from the Farm
 ~ Lori

Previous Postings ~ So much more to see!